Banaras' Manikarnika Ghat is a ground where time seems to stand still, and the difference between the living and the dead is at its thinnest. Here the gentle flow of the holy Ganges River, rituals and traditions have been performed for centuries. The lighting of funeral pyres, the offering of prayers, and the immersion of ashes - each act on this ghat is mixed with the emotions of love, loss, and longing. For those who come to this ghat seeking a glimpse of something eternal and profound, the Manikarnika Ghat offers a doorway to moksha, a chance to break free from the cycle of birth and death and attain everlasting peace.

Among all other rituals, sex workers dance between funeral pyres during Chaitra Navratri Saptami is a unique tradition. It is certainly unusual, but only for those unfamiliar with the tradition. In reality, the glammed-up prostitutes are in far more pain than the people there to bury their loved ones. Locals claim that they dance all night in front of Mahashamshan Baba in order to avoid this fate in the next life. This is not a celebration but an act of penance before the Mahashamshan baba. This is an age old tradition where Nagar-Vadhu (prostitutes) dance around burning pyres on seventh night of Navratri which is also the concluding day of the three-day ‘Shringar-Mahotsava’ of Baba Mahashamshan Nath. Before the performance, the women offer prayers at the temple of Mahashamshan Nath at the ghat.

Raja Sawai Man Singh of Amber, who had also built Man Mandir Ghat near Dashashwamedh Ghat in 1585. It is a common tradition to hold music programes on the inaugural day on any special occasions, It is said that when the king renovated this temple, no artist was available to perform at the inaugural function. This saddened the king. As word spread throughout the city and reached the Nagar-Vadhu of Kashi, they sent a message to the king agreeing to perform if given the chance. The king was overjoyed when he received this message, and the Nagar-Vadhus were invited to perform. The inaugration night was the seventh night of Navratri. Lord Shiva blessed all the Nagar-Vadhu and since then tradition began and continues to this day.

According to Nagar-Vadhu at the Ghat, the seventh night of Navaratri is the only night in their lives when they felt secure between the men. That was the only night they were treated with dignity. Dancing all night under the protection of Baba Shamshan Nath gives them strength and faith that they will not face this life again when their bodies are buried on the same land where they are dancing today.

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